Intermission...

22^th May 2013

Dunk Island 17^o 56.398S 146^o 8.174E

As you can tell the resort hasn’t been reopened since the cyclone the year before last.  There are some workers fixing up the jetty and they have kept an ablution block and bbq area open on the spit for campers and cruising boats.  A great guerilla marketing plan...

I had to motor all the way here and the wind is still on the nose until tomorrow afternoon.  Had a short walk to the other side of the island and have made some plans that don’t include going anywhere until the wind changes.

Some more different butterflys because you asked for it....

 

I need to get some pins and some cardboard...

And tonight’s dinner.  I’ll have to get a bigger pot as this one was too big to put fit in...

 ...in one piece.

23^rd May 2013

North Barnard Islands 17^o 40.393S 146^o 10.608E

There was no wind at all this morning so I did my washing and then went for walk up to the top of the hill at Dunk island.

I had planned to catch up with another cruiser to learn how to dress coconuts and by the time I came back from my wander up the hill he had left some already cut up on my washing. I’ll need to get a machete.  Move over Charles Bronson.(Actually I’m pretty sure he’s moved on…)

The wind came in as predicted at midday so I had a good sail up here. First time in a while I haven’t had to use the motor at all today since Mackay.  The same is predicted for tomorrow so I should get a good straight through run to Fitzroy Island.  If I can maintain a decent speed like today I might even get to Cairns.

The anchorage here is a bit rolly but,  it is only an overnight stop. It is tucked away under the lighthouse with a nice beach sand spit that separates the two islands.  There are a few coral bommies here that were a bit difficult to see now that it’s become overcast. I would go fishing but I’ve broken the handle off my last reel. Bloody expensive these fish or perhaps I should buy some decent gear.

Just at sunset a 50+ft power cruiser came and anchored in front of me.  Didn't even wave.  Just sent one of his hired help to beach with his dog to have a crap. (the dog that is) He's very close and I hope he doesn't drag.(the boat that is)((You know what I mean))
24^rd May 2013

Cairns 16^o 47.104S 145^o 42.987E

When I woke up this moorning I was a bit pissed that the cruiser has swung and was sitting right on top of my anchor.  It was 5am so I tied a fender on the bow and hauled up the chain. When I drove up on the anchor I gently nudged him away and finshed the retrieve.  No one stirred in the cruiser. I don't even think I woke them up. I thought at least the chef would have been preparing breakfast!

I had 15 to 20 knots of wind the whole way here today so I just kept on going.  Averaged  6 kots the whole day.  I should paint it Ferrari red.

I am now berthed at Half Moon Bay marina. Not without incident this time.... 
I broke the plastic top off the light stand that houses the power and water to the dock with the bow as I swung in.  I’ve fessed up and they didn’t seem too worried.  I’ll take a photo tomorrow when it’s light before they sticky tape it up.  It wasn’t as if someone died…

I’ll be here for just over a week as this is the last chance before Darwin to do the few things that need doing and to fully provision the boat for the next couple of months.

Intermission…

Hinchinbrook

17^th May 2013

I spent the day travelling around Magnetic Island.  This place is the bomb.  Really pretty and not too crowded.  You can buy a house here starting at 250k or a block from 100.  Just not in the same league as our inflated prices.  I suppose you always will have the cyclone threat to think about.  And apparently Schoolies can drive the locals nuts for that time.

I paid $2.90 and rode the bus all day getting off at all the bays, walks and shops. I purchased a real coffee, a loaf of bread and a pie from the bakery.  What I like to call a $10 day.  What an extravagant holiday splurge.

Today has been dead calm and after sunset I even put out a light over the back of the boat to attract in some squid for something different.  No luck with the squid but, two blue swimmers in the net. According to “The Navigator” I have the wrong type of squid jigs.  I can see a “squid off” happening when he jumps on the boat. (There’s not a competitive bone in my body)

No photos here. It is just too nice to diminish with my crappy camera.  Goggle image something if you must.  According to some of the other floating nomads it gets even better further north…

18^th May 2013

Hazard Bay – Orpheus Island 18^o 37.676S 146^o 29.375E

It has been a glum overcast day.

The anchorage here is deep and there hasn’t been a breath of wind since noon.  I took Merv ashore to fillet some fish and the water is clear with coral bomies.  It is a shame there is no sun to do much else. I can’t make up my mind whether or not to go around Hinchinbrook Island or through the channel.  The outside is beaches and the channel is mangrove.  If I’m going into the channel I’ll have to have a sleep in and wait for the tide.  If the sun was going to come out I would go around the outside and maybe go a bit further and visit the reef. Pity it’s glum, glum, glum…

19^th May 2013

Haycock Island 18^o 28.320S 146^o 13.119E

Well I am camped up in Hinchenbrook Channel.  Just managed to get the anchor down just after sunset after a full day.  After reading Lucas’s book he said that “Zoe Bay on the Eastern side in Hinchenbrook is probably the most spectacular bay on the East coast and it is a shame that there is no anchorage.”  There are a couple of creeks on the north and south of the bay with some mud maps where I could probably get in and anchor if the tide was big enough.  Low tide was just after 11am so I thought I would go in, anchor and then take Merv in to scope out the creeks.

Got to Zoe Bay (18^o 23.653S 146^o 19.764E) at just after low tide and anchored the boat in the pitching waves.  I must admit the bay is spectacular. There’s a beach, waterfalls and surrounded by wilderness rising up to 1000meters.  I had fun getting Merv in the water and waiting for the right wave to step up into him.

The Southern creek had only inches of water at its entrance and led to a waterfall.  It is quite narrow and not wide enough for a boat of Charisma’s size to swing in.  I spoke to two guys who were camped there who had walked in.  There’s a wilderness track that takes four days to walk.  Keen.

I then checked out the Northern creek.  It had only a couple of feet of water at the entrance but opened up to a wide area with deep water that I could anchor, or sit on the keels in.  However I was only going to get 1.5 metres at the next high tide. Just not enough safety margin.  I did consider taking the boat onto the beach and wait for tomorrow’s tide which is a meter higher but by the time I got back to the boat it was hobby horsing in the chop to the point where the nose was burying.  Great place but it would need some careful planning to visit for a thorough explore.

Here’s a pretty crappy video I took at the northern creek mouth. While I still making up my mind.

And here’s Merv hanging out at the northern creek mouth waiting to go fishing…

After that taste of Hinchenbrook I decided to go back to the channel where there are some easier anchorages.  The entrance to the channel is marked by a really long sugar loading jetty. 

Check the guiness book of records if you don't believe me...

As I was following the leads in The Coral Princess, a large P&O passenger cat came up behind me.  I pulled over to some deeper water outside the channel and jogged while it went past. 

I followed it up past the jetty at Lucinda.  You come within 20m of the jetty to stay in the channel.  I scared the crap out of a fisherman on the jetty when I yelled out if he had caught anything.  I had the sails up, in stealth mode, when I snuck up on him. He yanked so hard on his rod he tangled his lure when it flicked back at him. We both had a laugh…

Only problem with being in the channel is that I have lit a sandlewood stick in case there are sandflies.  It’s is a bit too still here and I am not that far away from the shore. Thanks for the heads up Carmen Miranda!

20^th May 2013

Gayundah Creek   18^o 22.262S 146^o 12.175E

Had a quiet day today exploring the creeks from here, crabbing, fishing, reading and enjoying the view.

 

How’s the serenity…

You’ll notice how the hills are clouded at their peaks all the time.  Apparently as they are so steep next to the ocean they create their own weather pattern. This area is supposed to have the highest rainfall in Australia because of it.  It is quite pleasant in the channel though.

21^th May 2013

Scraggy Bay   18^o 17.174S 146^o 6.116E

Despite it’s name this is probably the easiest spot to get a feel for Hinchenbrook.  There is a beach, grassed area with bbq’s and a short loop walk trail around a fresh water creek. 

I don’t know what these suckers are called but I remember my mother trying in vain to grow them on planks of wood in the patio out the back. Come on you horticulturalists.  Are they called elk horns or something like that.

The short walk around the creek is well worth the effort and the fresh water creek is nice for a cool off.

Sorry about that. 

To give it context these are just a couple of the different mushrooms I found.

There used be quite a large grove of coconuts here but someone has gone mad with a chain saw and cut them down. Afraid they would fall on someone’s head I suppose.  There is one still standing with a heap of fresh nuts on the ground. I have an axe on board so I might try some pina-colada naturals.  Or, I might just look at them for a while…

Is there something Freudian I’m missing in this photo?  It’s not the shirt is it?

Don’t worry. I wont start painting faces on them and giving them names.

As an aside, there are all these little lizards running through the rocks.  They are just like the ones at home except they have orange heads.

Finally there are also some old aboriginal rock fish traps here as well.

Did I bring the throw net? 

You betcha…

Isle of attraction

15^th May 2013

Cape Bowling Green 19^o 19.074S 147^o 23.447E

Trolled all the way here today trying different lures to replace the one I lost to a sailfish. Did I tell you I lost lure number 1? Lure 2 only produced a spotted mackerel.

Cape Bowling Green  is as you would expect a cape that is flat.

 A Geezer on the bowling Green. 

I’ve only ever set one foot a bowling green before. 

I had to hold the motor bike up at the time. (RIP Kids)

   Sunset at Cape Bowling Green

Flat is unusual around here.  I’ve had to park about ½ a kilometer out and I’m still only in 2m of water at low tide.  It is neap tides and I’m only staying the night so it will be an adequate stop on the way to either Townsville or Magnetic Island.  Will make up my mind tomorrow when I get closer and get internet connection.  If Townsville has a shop that sells my favourite lure I’ll go in and get a couple.  Did I tell you I lost lure number 1?

I was going to hang around here as there are some promising mangroves on the other side of the bay that should produce a mud crab or two but, I’ve lost my favourite lure and have to find a shop to replace it. Did I tell you I lost lure number 1?

I’m not compulsive….

 

16^th May 2013

Horse Shoe Bay - Magnetic Island 19^o 6.627S 146^o 51.402E

Well I lost another lure today.  The fish are getting bigger. Going to get some serious tackle in Cairns and be more cautious about tying knots. Never mind, I left a crab net hanging off the boat and caught some brunch.

Brunch

The wind was again from the wrong way today but luckily there wasn’t much of it.  I ended up motoring past Townsville.  If you look closely in the middle of this picture that is Townsville on the horizon. That’s Magnetic Island on the right.

  Wave to the Townsvillians!

(Well what else would they be called…)

The wind is blowing the wrong way for this anchorage but it should swing around tonight.  This is the first time I’ve actually felt the heat.  I even put both shade curtains up and contemplated having a swim to cool off.

The Army guys were doing some logistics training and came into the bay in their landing craft and rafted up.

 

If GK had still been here I wouldn’t have been able to stop him going over to say g’day and a look.

Went into the beach and have decided to take a day here while the wind makes up it’s mind.  There is a bus you can catch around the island.  If you think of Rotto I am at Jordie bay except, this is much nicer and has less people.  I often tell the locals they don’t realize how lucky they are to have such a usable coastline.

  Sunset at Horse Shoe Bay.

Just after sunset I had a front come over.  The wind is finally blowing the right way but howling in at over 30 knots and raining.  A real tropical squall.   I set up the hose from the cabin top and topped up the water tank in less than an hour.  I need the water as I need to do some washing.  I at first thought the smell was some crab bait but, it was my shirt!

After tomorrow I’ll be heading to Palm Islands. 

Disaster!!!

11^th May 2013

Airlie Beach is very pretty town. It services the Wetsunday Islands and the place is teeming with European backpackers. The street front looks like Bali with everyone selling tours, renting stinger suits, diving gear, jet skis or boats.  I’m parked between charter cats and most of them operate out of here or, nearby Shute harbor.

On the walk down to the Saturday markets there are still a couple of boats lying where they finished up after then last blow.  Perhaps they might have slipped their mooring line and drifted in.  This reminds me of something that happened to us the first night here. Can’t remember what it was at the moment.  Perhaps The Great Kepple could remind me? 

Wrecked on the rocks

Before GK left we had the obligatory steak dinner.  This is the one restaurant we didn’t need.

After the usual trip to the hardware  I spent a day on the beach tidying up Merv.  The fisheries guys I spoke to in Mackay made a comment about the collar hiding his registration numbers.  Even though he’s a little bit too big I’ve decided he is now a tender and anointed him so.

Merv is tightly locked in up high in the davits now when we are underway,  He also has a little bit of grey on his mo to stop him marking the boat when we get in and out of him.

Leaving Airlie Beach

Whilst doing this work I pulled a muscle in my back and have had to take it easy up for a couple of days. It means I’m going to miss the good wind that has been forecast and will probably use a bit more diesel getting to Townsville.

15^th May 2013

Upstart Bay 19^o 43.707S 147^o 44.747E

Left early this morning and was going to have short day to take it easy.  There was a bit of breeze but then died when I caught a small spotted mackerel for breakfast. Fairly bland compared to Spanish Mackerel.  By the time it was filleted, fried and masticated the engine had to go on. At least the weather was fine.

I had planned to pull in at around noon at Queens Bay just outside Bowen but the wind came up from the North.  This is very unusual for this time of year and would have left me on a lee shore. (This means that if the anchor dragged the boat would get blown onto the beach.) It was either go back to Bowen or head on up to here.  By the time I got started through the coal ships waiting to be loaded the wind died completely out and it was flat sunset.

 

 

The anchorage at Cape Upstart was is as still as a politician’s synapses. 

There are a lot of fishing shacks here.  A bit like wedge Island but much prettier.

It even has mist in the hills in the morning

 

16^th May 2013

Disaster!    

I lost my best lure this morning.  I hooked a bloody great sailfish who danced away with it.  It cut though the 200lb leader without a second thought. I would have let him go anyway. It was a pretty ugly lure that looked very unlikely but it caught fish!  Dam! (teeth gnashing)

 

I'm using lure number two now which only seems to catch Mackerel.

The Wetsunday Islands

4^th May

Brampton Island  20^o 47.942S 149^o 15.832E

Gk and I fueled up and have finally left Mackay.  He took the boat into the fuel dock and no one died...

I now should have enough fuel to get to Darwin.

Here is GK on watch on the way from Mackay to Brampton/Curtis  Islands.

He has been getting the usual knocks and bangs as he gets used to the boat.  Merv however got him in the shin which got them off on the wrong foot.  They spent the afternoon when we got here fishing to try to set things back on a more even keel.   As you can tell we are working on another verse for the mermaid song. More children will die…

We have spent a couple of days here exploring and fishing.  There is a resort that has been abandoned on Brampton Island.  Complete with airstrip some investors would have lost a lot of money.  Bad management seems to be the consensus with the locals and other boats we have spoken to. 

Landing on the airstrip

Into the jungle...

Cutis Island is uninhabited but joined to Brampton by a sand bar at low tide. Most of the tracks are overgrown  or, have been damaged.  The terrain is pretty rugged it was very difficult to get the anchorage shot.  Is a pretty popular stop that we have shared with up to eight other boats.

We’ve put a bit of effort in and have caught enough fish. Mostly Blue Bone but, we’ve also had red emperor, coral trout and queen snapper.  We have our own filleting table that has been getting a workout at low tide.

8^th May

Thomas Island  20^o 32.584S 149^o 6.426E

The landry

The weather has been anything but good.  Rain and gusty winds so we spent another day at Bramptom Island doing washing and getting cabin fever.

This morning we just left.  Once we hauled anchor a few of the other boats that were also sitting it out must have been as itchy to get moving as us and followed us out. The sea was really short and unpredictable but we made good time motor sailing at between 6 and 7 knots.  We knew it would be rubbish when we left so we just put up with it the three hours it took.

Thomas island is a beautiful anchorage that is only spoilt by the weather which is still windy and wet.  No sun and no visibility in the water. I was really looking forward for a dive here as it isn’t visited very often. Where we are anchored is unsurveyed.

The anchorage was great when we came in but deteriorated by the time night had set in. The boat was hobby horsing as the tide came in so we pulled all the lines and the dinghy in and sat it out for a rocky night and made ready to leave when the sun came up.  The weather report indicates more of the same so we will island hop up to Airlie Beach so that GK can get off and back to Melbourne. Perhaps he might take the weather with him.

9^th May

Airlie Beach  20^o 15.417S 148^o 42.219E

Well we started off heading to Shaw Island today to get back in VHF range to get the weather report.  There was a wind warning out and not much chance of an improvement until after the weekend.  This sort of rules out anything on the outside of The Whitsunday islands so we bit the bullet and headed straight to Airlie Beach.

With 30 knots of wind we reached over 9 knots on the boat motor sailing and when we got in behind the islands on some flatter water we were able to cruise along  with just the genoa out at over 8 knots. Not bad for 11 tonnes of anvil and a new speed record… I could almost smell the burning rubber from the tyres.

 

 

We are on a mooring that a local has let us use.  Thanks “Nifty Boilersuit”!  I've tried to send you an email but you must have written your address down wrong. Were you trying to avoid us or, was it that second rum? We are looking for a directors cut of Stone.

The Great Kepple is going to get off here and head back to Melbourne.  He’s been good company but, hopefully he’ll take the Melbourne weather with him. He has actually done really well and hasn't been sick which was his biggest worry. Especially considering the sea conditions.

Well that was the Wetsundays.  I’ll have to come back and have another look when the sun is out.