There is sort of a plan coming together as I get further up
the east coast and there are a couple of opportunities for someone not feint of heart to join
in. I’ve tried to break it up into two week lots and have dates
that will be pretty flexible up to a point.If you want to join in at any point you are more than welcome to stay on
for the next leg. There is room for three on board and some legs already have
someone flying in to meet the boat. The
Plan… Cooktown to Seisia - over the top of Cape York:
Cooktown arrive on or before the 12th June.
Depart Cooktown around the 15th June.
Seisia (Bamaga)arrive on or before 2nd July.
Seisia to Gove - accros the Gulf of Carpentaria:
Depart Seisia 3rd July.
Gove arrive on or before 18th July.
Gove to Darwin - via the hole in the wall:
Depart Gove
sometime after 19th July.
Darwin arrive two to three weeks after leaving Gove around
the 9th August. This section can be done in a few days but there are
some interesting stops and passages to be made.
Darwin to Darwin:
After getting there I’ll have to hang around Darwin for a couple of
weeks for spring tides so that I can get the boat up the creek where it can be
put on the hard so, if someone wants to come up for a week or so and do some
exploring I’m open to something.Perhaps
a mini Kimberley – Darwin to Berkley and back to Darwin?
By the start of September I should have the boat on the hard
stand stripped and packed away for the cyclone season. So this will be last
chance this year for a bit of adventure.
Whilst there is a schedule now, there are no guarantees.
We’ll only travel when the weather is suitable. I’ve tried to make the windows wide
enough to get to the next point safely within the time frame but, if we can’t
make a passage safely then it wont happen.
I had to leave Curlew Island at 5 am to make use of a 2kn
tidal current on my way here.It meant
that when I got here the tide was out so the entrance to Grass Tree Creek was
if bit iffy.I anchored out the front
waiting for the incoming tide so that I could get in.I started to read a book but fell asleep and
missed the tide window.
Never mind it is quite pleasant out here anyway.The creek is probably full of sandflies
anyway…
21stApril
2013
Mackay21o
21.858S 149o 18.876E
Had a good wind to blow me up here and into the Mackay
harbor.I had to skirt around Hay point
loading facility.The AIS showed that
were over 2 dozen ships anchored or being loaded at the conveyor.
As I was pulling into the harbor I was hailed by the captain
of the Coral Princess which was trying to leave the port while I was coming
in.He asked that I go around his stern
which I did.He was too big for me to
take on.The fisheries boat came over
and took my details.Apparently it is a
pretty tight port with a lot of weekend boats cutting through so they like to
keep everything pretty well controlled.You have to go through the harbor to get to the town marina and boat
ramp.I was a bit worried but, the
fisheries guys were cool and laughed saying that I did the right thing.At least I responded which apparently doesn’t
happen all the time.
Any way finally got to do my first solo docking.It all went a bit too smoothly.No one died.
Pulled out the old diesel tank and found a place that will
make me a steel one.All up it will
probably cost a boat $.At least it will
be done properly and I won’t leave a smear through the Whitsundays.
Walked over to North Mackay( about 7 km) today to visit the
closest hardware store and then caught the bus back. A good walk seems to be the only way
I can get my land legs back after being on the boat for an extended time.I’m sure that’s why marinas seem to be so
bloody far away from town.
The Great Kepple arrived on Friday might and I’ve had him
joining the walk/bus ride into town for some serious shopping.
The GK and I power shopping
Well we’ve been here in Mackay for a week now waiting for a weather window.These are no big pineapples or other large
objects here that queensland is famous for but, I have so far been able to locate an adequately large cane toad...
And a reasonably big banana...
Although why it is being used to advertise a tackle shop I
just can’t figure out. It's actually so bizare it could count as installation art.
Mackay is actually a bit of a boom town and it's a bit like home where Hi-vis is a fashion statement. I haven't been wasting my time here though and have managed to locate a Brumby's that sells what is possibly the perfect apple turnover...
Had an exhilarating sail here this morning. It was wet and
raining and by the time I’d got to the reefs which were my turning point the
wind was gusting between 25 and 30 knots.I only had the genoa out all day and by the time I had to make the turn
I had hauled in all but a quarter and were still cracking along at 6kn.Great fun steering through the reefs under
sail.The video is from earlier on in
the day.
The anchor was down by 11:50 and had a warm shower to
unfreeze.Bacon and eggs by 12:10.I’ll be stuck here until the wind warning
goes away as there isn’t really any further North I can sneak up in a morning
before the wind picks up.Going to take
Merv for an explore up the creek tomorrow.
A word of warning if you are going to travel this way! -
There are no pancakes at Pancake Creek (Sorry another dad joke … and another
child dies)I do have some packet mix on
board if I was inclined to make some.
11th April 2013
Found about 4 litres of diesel in the bilge this
morning.It looks like its leaking from
the fittings in the 110 litre day tank.The brass fittings look like they go straight into the fiberglass tank
which doesn’t really look all that robust.There is too much diesel in it at the moment for me to drain so I’ve put
a couple of nappies to soak it up before it gets to the bilge.
Go on. Ask me why I have a packet of nappies
on board?
I’ll wait until I can empty it and try some thread
tape.Does anyone know what might work
sealing brass to fiberglass?
It’s actually a real pain in the butt as I’ve set up the big
tank to pump into it and it would mean redirecting all the hoses and pumps to make
it redundant.Worst case scenario is to
get a steel one fabricated somewhere and replace it.
The wind is still blowing and I haven’t been able to get a
full weather report but it looks like the warning is in until Thursday.
Still windy. No planes at aircraft beach...
Walked the 2.6k up to the lighthouse where I
can get some reception.Pretty cool
place.It is stilled manned and in tip
top condition.
Yes it is windy
and
some never leave...
Oh – and I used the oven.I made scones!Cleaning bilges
and baking hahahahahaha…..
12th April 2013
We (Merv and I) had a bit of a rough night.The wind picked up to 40kn(39.9 actually
according to the wind gauge)The boat
was dancing around the anchor as I was in a crossflow of current against
wind.Set the timer for every half an
hour and got up to make sure that the anchor was holding.It decided to drag at 4 am of course.It reset but left me hanging over a sand bar
with about 10cm between the keels and the bottom. I could feel them touching
every now and then for the next half hour but as the tide was still coming in I
decided to sit it out.
I sat with the key in the ignition until the tide was getting
close to its peak at about 9:00am and then hauled the anchor and moved the boat
to mid channel a bit further upstream.The current is a lot more predictable here and I am tucked in closer to
the tree line for a bit more protection from the wind.I’ve put 7 to 1 scope out as I’m a bit close
to another boat that’s also moved in here.
At least having to start the motor has meant a nice hot
shower and it now looks like a pjamie day.All I need now is a double breasted bed warmer.I haven’t been able to pick up the weather
report here on the VHF so I’ll have a go a working the UHF.Time to RTFM!Otherwise I’llhave to walk back up to the lighthouse to get
reception on the not-so-smart-phone.
I may even bake a cake…What’s the point of packet cake mix if you still have to add eggs and
milk???
My god! See how meaningless my life has become? I’m taking
photos of food.This is as bad as
Facebook!
My view for today...
There is the lighthouse in the distance.
14th April 2013
Hummocks Island23o
23.828S 151o 9.313E
I snuck out with the high tide at midnight from Pancake
creek and motor sailed until the wind kicked in as I was going past the
shipping waiting to get into Gladstone. Threw a lure in just as the sun was
coming up and broke the hex…
Crazy old coot with a fish
Sushi anyone? Is it a tuna or, a mackerel tuna?Fresh sashimi for breakfast,mackerel steaks for lunch and a honey mustard
salad with grilled mackerel for tea.The
only things I’m running out of is chocolate and lollies!
Really funny way to catch fish.I’ve haven’t been throwing the lure out as
I’ve had to look after everything else myself so when I got the first run and
whatever it was let go I thought that it was just the usual.The second strike was seriously on and caught
me quite unprepared.As I was playing
him in towards the boat I swapped hands and put on the gloves one at a time. I
then backed down the companion way and grabbed the gaff still playing the fish
through the hatch. Maybe he wanted to commit suicide.
By the time I filleted it and cleaned down the decks
Hummocky Island was on the horizon.
It would be handy to have a surfboard to explore these. Merv
was a bit too wide to get too far in.The Hummocks are 210m high and I still had my land legs so I just went
up the bit in the middle for the money shot…
Fay's anchorage.
Coming down was worse than going up as it was very slippery
and loose.The geology looks very
similar to the Capricorn Heads so I suppose this is just a mainland island and
not part of the reef yet.It doesn’t
look like it gets many visitors as there was no signs of the usual rubbish left
around.The beach and rocks were a
graveyard at the high tide mark for dead coral that floats in.
Graveyard bones.
Did I tell you I caught a fish today?
15th April 2013
Pearl Bay22o
22.640S 150o 43.844E Had a bit of a tour today. Travelled all up 79.89nm with an
average speed of 4.85kn. I left early for Great Kepple Island. It was a bit of
a disappointment after Fay Wray’s Butt. The resort is closed down and the
island looks like it’s had a lot of visitors.Someone cynically told me that they are spending twice as much to build a
bigger resort after the last one failed.Smart.
Great Kepple anchorage but, we know who the really great
Keppel is don’t we?
It was still early and the wind was blowing that way so I
headed for Rosslyn Bay boat Harbour.The
book says there are swing anchorages’ there but, it has been converted to a
marina and was jam packed with yachts.It is a very dramatic harbor with a large rock hill overlooking it. Disappointed
that I wouldn’t be able to get my chocolate fix there I headed Yeppoon.The tide was peaking so I pulled up outside
the surf beach and took Merv in.He
stayed on the beach while I went up to the supermarket and loaded up with
quality food.
Merv sunbaking in front of the surf life saving club.
Essential provisions...
I actually also got bread and milk,(As well as a foot long
subway and a real coffee). Yeppoon looks like a nice clean place and the locals
I met were all friendly.I was only
there two hours.
After my sugar rush I decided to press on and when the wind
filled in at about four I thought I might as well keep going to Pearl Bay which
has a nice easy anchorage to get into even at night.Beautifulnight for sailing. Perfect wind, no swell, no moon but clear skies.
Skipping along at over 6 knots with only the trawlers to keep an eye out for.
Trawlers to the right
Trawlers to the left.
The prawns were phosphorescent as they came to the surface as I passed. Even at
anchor they light up as they come near the boat.At first I thought that it was the reflection
of the stars until they started to flip around.The old eyes can’t pick out the satellites any more but you can’t miss
the shooting stars.
16th April 2013
Supply Bay22o
13.013S 150o 28.015E
Had a sleep in after the sugar rush yesterday.Pearl Bay is very pretty in a rugged sort of
way.A picture doesn’t do it justice so
I took a video instead.
Really nice to
wake up to.
I headed off to Supply bay at Point Townsend around midday. Not
much wind and motoring all the way with the main up to give me an extra ½
knot. I was going through the lures along the way and seeing what works and
what doesn’t.A couple of baby Macks on
one of them. I’m releasing them now as I’ve enough fish on board.Oh, and I’ve finished a second book…
That crazy coot with a fish again.
Supply Bay is a Defense force training ground so I haven’t
bothered to land.I wonder if when they
are doing their exercises they get to appreciate the sunset.
Blatant promotion
The stars are out of focus in this one but the sun’s rays
look just like a kindergarden kid draws them.
I have another photo that has the stars in focus but the foreground is
out.Still, I was there to see it
anyway.
I’m sorry that I haven’t been in contact range much. I’m not
even getting the VHF any more but am still monitoring Channel 16. When I was at Yeppoon there were 10 messages
on my phone and everyone was at work or didn’t answer.It is what it is…
Tomorrow it’s off to the cruiser’s oracle at Percy Islands…
Dolphins often swim along with me.Usually around dusk. They love being up by the bow. It is that
romantic imagery that sells the notion of boats and being at sea.What no one tells you is that they breathe
through the top of their head and their breath stinks. They eat nothing but
fish and don’t brush their teeth. Forget morning breath, dolphin breath is the
pits.
Manatees, or sea cows, are ugly as sin. I’ve only seen one
and that was while I was in a berth at Bundaberg Port Marina of all places.It came up behind the boat rolling over and
waving a stunted flipper at Merv in a provocative manner. Luckily manatees
don’t see themselves as butt ugly and have a kind of relaxed attitude.I like manatees.
Butterflys?What is
it with butterflys?I can be anywhere,
anytime, and I’ll see these characters flitting around passing the boat. Whilst
they get tossed with the breeze they are determined to fly in their chosen
direction. You got to admire the little buggers. Butterflies are determined.
Now if you put all these together you’d have a Turd-o-manfly.
Don’t know what it would look like but it would be butt ugly, and would laughingly
kill it prey by breathing toxic fumes on it….This your fault Deb for suggesting thatI read Bryson’s history of almost everything.
17th April 2013
South Percy Island21o
44.070S 150o 18.622E
A beautiful anchorage with the first really clean water I’ve
had so far.I can see the anchor on the
bottom. These are not coral islands but
are very picture perfect.So I wont
bother with showing you a photo as you can probably google something better
than I can take.
After my demented ramblings on butterflies yesterday(too
much sugar) I’ve found where they were heading. Here’s a picture of my anchorage and those
things that look like birds are butterflies.
In fact there were thousands of these little blue and black aerial
dynamos swarming up this hill most of the afternoon.
The Blue and Black Baron butterfly.
There was even a mutant albino butterfly.
Argh...Mutant!
Where were they heading?They were catching the updraft of the hill and then drifting down into
this fresh water spring where they were having a party.
Fresh water spring. Party central...
Actually it was more of an intimate moment for the
butterflies so I didn’t take any photos out of respect. I’ve named it happy
hollow.Throughout the scrub there were
a lot of weeds. Lantana being the most prevalent.The Percy Isles used to be a cattle station
so I wasn’t expecting native scrub but there was even cactus.
With fresh water this would make the perfect little
hideaway. Someone has put up the
ultimate hammock.
Just up your tree Den.
By the way there was a large pod of dolphins doing dolphin
stuff next to the boat this afternoon.Luckily they were down wind.
18th April 2013
Middle Percy Island21o
31.905S 150o 14.664E
We paid homage to the cruising gods today. The anchorage is
probably the best known amongst cruisers of this coast. In the bay there is an
A frame “Yacht Club” where passing boats leave an offering to the gods.
Achorage with A frame
The A frame
Not that I’m superstitious but there is no point taking
chances so we made an offering of the remaining oar that Bill gave me. It had refused to fall off the deck
so far.
Our offering to the cruising gods
The inscription.
Once you’ve left your offering you have to toast the
cruising gods.
An equal portion has to be spilt on the ground for the gods
and then you have to dance around where the rum was spilled three times...
I’m just making this up of course. Once the gods have been appeased you
then get to enjoy the view from the “clubhouse”.
And there’s lots of interesting stuff and memorabilia.
Inside the A Frame.
The actual ceremony is a secret but, it doesn’t involve
goats. There’s lots of them on the island. I made the trek up to the homestead
as you are supposed to get reception on the top of the hill. You just follow
the coconuts.
Coconut sign posts
Of course my phone wouldn’t work but, the guys there let me
use their house phone to check in with home. Genuine hospitality.The island is no longer used as a cattle
station but leased as a park.The A
frame and surrounds are all maintained by volunteers. Pretty cool. I may have
found a yacht club where I’d fit in...
19th April 20113
Curlew Island21o 35.886S 149o 47.541E
As you can see there was no wind today so I didn’t even look
at the sails.It’s no wonder that people
used to think that you would fall off the edge of the world.
I had the motor and autopilot on and was reading a
book.I usually set a timer for every
hour at least or when I’m going to need to change course etc.Today I must have forgotten to press reset at
one stage and was engrossed in my book.When I look up this was about 100m off my starboard side.
It’s called Bluff island and is part of the Guardfish
cluster where I am now.For those of you
who have noticed I hardy went North at all today and have turned the corner
round the lumpy bit of Queensland. This is supposed to be a great diving spot
but unfortunately the water is murky so I’ve packed the diving gear away until
after Mackay.
Stuck here with in Bundaberg wind warning current. Even if the weather improves
it looks like Lady Musgrove will be out as the winds will pick up the wave
heights. Finally cleaned out the long range diesel tank, fitted some fuel
filters and other boring stuff.
Fuel filters..talk about exciting!
Merv got lucky and picked up a couple of birds here in the
marina.
It’s his super cool moustache.It drives the chicks crazy. These two started
to make a nest under it on the bow.It’s
time to get moving.
7th April 2013
Bustard Bay 24o
8.175S 151o 41.135E
I had a late start as I had to get fuel. My first solo docking at the fuel dock.
No one died…
I filled the big tank with 698 Litres. It will take another
200L but I wasn’t sure whether the inspection cover would seal correctly.I thought I would give it some shaking around
at sea first to see if it was going to leak….Be careful for what you wish for.
There aren’t any more photos from today. By about lunchtime
I was cruising up the coast messaging pictures of my feet up on the deck to all
the poor people back home at work. Little did I know that I was
just about to get my smug, big, hairy arse kicked…
About 2 in the afternoon I realized I wasn’t going to get to
1770 in daylight. Apparently the entrance is tricky.Well, I thought I’d sneak in north of it into
Bustard Bay and anchor up before heading in on the high tide the next morning.
There was a front working its way up behind me and looked like
it could be trouble so I reeled in some sail.By 3:00 the wind was picking up a bit too much and I rounded up into the
wind to get the sail down.I must have
spilt diesel under the mat and it slipped out from under my feet sending me across
the cockpit and the boat into irons. Water over the back, ropes and crap sloshing
around in the cockpit. What a bloody mess.I struggled up a little battered and got the boat the boat back under
control and heading into the wind.It
took a little while to get the flogging sails back in and the boat was hobby
horsing all over the place.The seas
weren’t big. Just washing machine messy.
When I finally got the boat motoring back on course and checked
out the wind gauge – 30+ knots Something not right here.As I went down below the 4:15 weather report
came over the VHF.“Securitay. Securitay.A strong wind warning has been issued…”Yeah? No kidding?Merv and I had a bit of a chuckle.Is talking to inanimate objects a sign of
madness?
Anyway, I ploughed on with no other option but to make
Bustard Bay.The boat was getting tossed
around in the slop but grinding along.It could be worse.Then it
started to rain buckets. After sunset visibility was bugger all and I finally
got into Bustard Bay just after 8:00pm.
I had to trust the chart plotter that I was on the right course.At least when I got there I was protected
from the wind.Came into the shore to
about 6 meters of depth.A little closer
and I could hear the breakers on the beach.Had a little recon around with the depth sounder and dropped the anchor
and had a rum while making sure it had set.Really crappy night checking the anchor regularly and the boat was still
in wave and swell.
Well that was my first solo sail on Charisma.Not uneventful but the boat will handle a lot
more if needed.I just need to be
careful and keep everything ship shape.The only casualties were some bruises, a little skin off my butt(no photo
– can’t reach)andMerv has lost a bit of
his moustache chaffing on the rear step.I’ve got a nice new fender for him that I’ll fit in 1770 tomorrow.
Oh by the way, the
inspection cover on the diesel tank does leak.It just needed to be shaken up a bit to see where.And….The Yanmah hour meter is working again????
9th April 2013
1770 24o 9.719S 152o 52.947E
I’ve read everything before starting this trip. Don’t believe
Alan Lucas’s book.It’s so out of date
that there is hardly anywhere left to anchor a yacht without being on the
bottom.The locals seemed to have put
any coloured marker anywhere THEY know where it is shallow.Had a chat with a guy on a cat who was parked
up on a sand bank and decided I would try and find a flat bit with a couple of
meters of water on it and use the keels.
High and Dry ...I can walk to the boat.
1770 is a real place.It was named by lieutenant Cook in
– yes – wait for it - 1770.It has come
a long way since then.They have sealed
the road into it and it is a real little thriving community.It has a camping ground and about 50
ostentatious holiday homes that are
either for sale or rent.It has a manned
real estate office, and the usual fishing holiday businesses just like anywhere
else.
By the way, I’ve figured out how to set a 10 second delay on
the camera to take a photo so you can expect lots of thumbs up from now on. Walked
back along the beach and this is the entrance.
I’m glad I didn’t try to get through here last night.
On the way back from my walk I found a couple of surfboards that Cook left behind tucked away in some trees..
Didn't you know that Cook was an explorer and a stand up paddler?
The tide has turned and I’m off the bottom now so it safe to
leave and go to the pub. Of course, there is a beach side pub.Going to buy a bloke who gave us a hand with
the inspection cover a beer.I caught a couple of live mullet for bait so the fishing
is on tonight…
Sandy Point (Moon Point) 25o 13.845S 152o
49.757E 7.5 hours motor
We started to pull the anchor at about 9:30 for a day of
motoring up “The Narrows” between Fraser Island and the mainland but had a bit
of a hiccup getting away.During the
change of tides throughout the night we must have drifted around a submerged
tree.The anchor chain couldn’t have
been tighter wound if we had done it deliberately.
Super Mark to the rescue with saw and axe while I jogged the
boat in the channel.
I’m a Lumberjack and I’m ok…
Stopped about lunchtime at Ungower just south of the ranger
station to actualy set foot on Fraser.We were met by a local Barney(Goanna) who circled round the tree trunk
as we tried to get a better look at him.
As we started to walk up the track we realized
that it was mozzie city.They were a
plague and sucking real blood.Back on
the boat and parked just off Sandy Cape at about 4:30.Just in time to watch the pelagic fish come
to smash the poor old bait fish all around the point.
Squeaky white sand and soft shelled baby turtles – Yum…
2nd April 2013
We had a late start after a big night of self-medication
during which it was decided that today would be a day off fishing.We moved around the point to the northern
side get off the lee shore and then took Merv for a walk and claimed a sand cay
where we tried to catch some bait.
I had a good run on the rod that took most of the 80lb braid
off the reel. And then snapped it off!
We were going to make a concerted effort to catch a fish here before we head
off to Bundaberg tonight but we were running short of the serious gear needed.
We fished to the max all day but to no avail and ended up sitting
around tonight waiting for the wind to come in so we can head off to Bundaberg
and find a tackle shop.
3rd to 4th April 2013
Bundaberg Port Marina24o 45.761S 152o 23.202E - 10.5 hours on the motor
Refueled at Bundaberg 26 hours for 63 Litres – 2.4L per hour
We left Sandy cape at just before midnight and motor-sailed the whole way to Bundaberg. We could have turned the motor off for a while
but wanted to maintain 6kn to arrive at the right tide.Mark did the big shift and when he finally
went to bed the fish started going mad all around us smashing into baitfish.I was going to wake him but after the last
couple of days efforts that he had put in to fishing I just didn’t have the heart.
Mark berthed the boat in Bundaberg with a deft hand. We tied
up to what is left of the commercial fuel wharf and went and took a berth at
the marina at the river entrance.
There is still debris in the river so the entrance is closed
during the night to all boats. This is going to make it difficult for me to
leave early enough to get to Lady Musgrove Island on Friday.There still quite a few boats that have been
left on the rocks after having been swept down the river.Some flash boats here in the marina and I'm the youngest person here by about a decade.
I do however have the sexiest tender in town...
Who's a pretty Merv?
We caught the courtesy bus into town so Mark could arrange a
train to Townsville. Had to catch a taxi back as the bus we needed doesn’t run
during school holidays.Bundaberg is
streets ahead of Rockingham.The photo
says it all…
Mark left today to catch a train to Townsville.It’s been great having someone so seaworthy
on board for the first bit.I think he
left pretty hooked on the idea of sailing.Thanks mate and I’m sure the only regret is the lack of fish landed.
There’s a strong wind warning out so it looks like I wont be
going to Lady Musgrove tomorrow.Going
to do a few jobs on the boat and I should be able to finally get away on
Sunday.
I will be out of range for a couple of weeks as I’m going to
follow the island chains off the coast. Starting at Lady Musgrove I’ll head
through the Capricorn group through the Northumberland Group and into Mackay in
a couple of weeks. That’s the way the wind is blowing…
It means I’ll miss
Keppel(sp)(sorry Chris) but you can’t do everything can you? I’ve cleaned out
the large diesel tank and that should be ready to put into use so, fuel wont be
a problem.
I should be in Mackay around the start of the WA school
holidays… This will put me quite a bit
ahead of schedule so I should be able to take a bit more time through the
Whitsundays…
Cleaning up some loose ends – here’s the video of the Wide
Bay Bar crossing.